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September is the month that sees the transition from summer to autumn and things start to slow down a little as temperatures fall. It’s a sad time of year because you know what’s coming but it’s a time of getting the last out of the garden before starting to put things to bed for the winter.
It’s the perfect time of year for establishing a new lawn from turf or seed or carrying out necessary lawn maintenance. After the hot weather in June the lawn will need scarifying with a spring tined rake and bare patches will need scratch seeding. Aerate the ground with a garden fork to avoid compaction and waterlogging. Also apply the final weed and feed for the year with an autumn fertiliser that is high in potassium and low in nitrogen. Potassium encourages root growth which will develop a healthy mass of roots known as the “sward”. Low nitrogen will avoid too much leaf growth which will be susceptible to frosts.
Continue to feed and dead-head containers and hanging baskets which should last well into the autumn. Divide herbaceous perennials and water in well and plant out lupin and delphinium seedlings if you sowed from this year’s seed. Plant spring flowering bulbs like daffodils and hyacinths and hopefully you followed my advice on dwarf irises (iris reticulata) and the big crocus (crocus vernus). If you have sedum and chrysanthemums in the borders they will put on a strong autumn show. Ensure camellias and rhododendrons remain well watered as next year’s flower buds will be developing now. Now is also a good time to plant bare rooted trees and shrubs but try and appreciate how big they will grow. Prepare the soil well, add some bone meal and plenty of water.
Keep harvesting vegetable crops and if you have a glut consider freezing, drying, storing and pickling. I always plan on keeping marrows until Easter and pickled shallots with black peppercorns and chilli flakes are great with the Christmas ham. Cut down your potato maincrop haulms (foliage) about 3 weeks before lifting. This avoids the possibility of blight and helps to thicken the skins. Leave about 3” so you still know where they are. Last year I left my maincrop in the ground and they remained in fine shape but it was a risk. It is best to lift them, dry them and store them in hessian sacks in a cool dark place. It’s a good idea to check them as one rotten potato will infect all those around it and give quite a pungent smell. Place pumpkins and squashes on a piece of wood to keep them off wet soil and prevent rotting. Also remove any leaves that shadow the pumpkins to allow them to ripen in time for Halloween. Keep feeding climbing and runner beans which should go through to October. Pick little and often to prevent them setting seed. Ensure that brassicas are covered with netting to keep the birds away. The end of the month is a good time to plant garlic bulbs and autumn onion sets. Pot up some mint and parsley for the kitchen windowsill to use during winter.
Apples should start ripening from now through to the end of October depending on variety. Remove any rotting or undersized fruit to encourage the final crop. When ripe they pick easily by lifting them in the palm of your hand and gently pulling away. With pears it’s not so easy as they ripen from the inside out. It’s best to pick them a little early and ripen them on the windowsill than risk them rotting. It’s also blackberry season so time for puddings and jams and freeze any surplus.
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We are always looking for new members and try to encourage a fun attitude towards friendly competition. So if you want to grow your own fruit, vegetables and flowers or even enter any of the 3 shows we hold each year, then please get in touch, we would be happy to hear from you.
If you are interested in becoming a new member, (all ages are welcome), please contact Rosey on: 01634 377812 (evenings) or Email: rosemary@ringwoodaccounting.co.uk
Sean Barry - Upchurch Horticultural Society
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