Before I visited Cartagena on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, I had no idea that another man connected with Upchurch had been there centuries earlier.
Incredibly atmospheric and romantic, the old city of Cartagena with its Spanish style mansions and palaces, colonial churches and vibrant plazas has always made the city an attractive tourist destination, although in recent decades the country’s reputation as a dangerous venue of drug related violence and murder has made international tourists wary.
On street corners I watched Afro-Caribbean women perform rhythmic dances with vibrating bodies to African drums. Decorated horse drawn carriages clattered along the narrow cobbled streets while the sounds of vallenato music and songs by famous Colombian singer Shakira filled the air. The whole area pulsed with Caribbean culture from a combination of Spanish, African and native Indian roots. It resembled something straight from a novel by renowned Colombian writer Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
Sir Francis Drake whose father Edmond served as vicar of Upchurch from 1560 to 1567, attacked Cartagena with a force of 3,200 men from 30 ships in February 1586. They burnt about 200 houses and destroyed part of the city’s cathedral with cannon fire. After defeating the Spanish defenders Drake secured a ransom of 107,000 gold Ducats along with jewels, artillery pieces and other goods. Drake and his men occupied the city for two months and even considered establishing an English settlement there before vacating the area.
Sir Francis Drake.
Drake did not cease his violent actions in Cartagena. He also attacked the port of Santa Marta a bit farther along the coast five times and he remained a serious problem for the Spanish throughout the Caribbean region with support from Queen Elizabeth 1st. Drake’s attacks on the Spanish Main caused chaos and this ultimately led to the Spanish Armada when the Spanish tried to invade England in 1588.
It isn’t definitely known if Drake ever lived in Upchurch or even visited the village while his father served as vicar. He would have been about twelve years old when his father came to the village in 1560 and could have already been at sea. However, he became a very significant figure in English history and has a connection with Upchurch.
These days the only reminder of Sir Francis Drake in Cartagena is Drake’s House which is a mansion of four levels with pictures and artefacts from the period. Located in the old city opposite the cathedral, it’s named Casa de Alba, one of the first buildings in the city to be made of stone, Drake stayed there as Governor of Cartagena. Nowadays, the building is rented to wealthy tourists with facilities such as Jacuzzis, a swimming pool and seven bedrooms.
I continued my vacation visiting the Gold Museum, the Inquisition Museum, the old Spanish fortress and the cathedral. I went sunbathing on a beautiful sun drenched beach called La Playa Blanca, I visited the delightful Rosario islands and socialised in La Boca Grande, a district full of restaurants and nightclubs where I drank and danced the nights away to pulsating Latino music in the hot and steamy atmosphere of Cartagena, a city once attacked and occupied by the seafaring son of an Upchurch vicar.
David Wood
About David
David Wood was born, raised and still lives in Upchurch today. He is able to write from personal experience about village life and the changes that have taken place over the years, making ‘Memories of Upchurch’ a very readable and detailed historical study of the village.
David's book is available from David at david3702001@yahoo.co.uk or from us here at Upchurch Matters. Price £12 + postage and packing.
